Atlantic views and a determined sea breeze
A rewarding walk along one of Cornwall's most dramatic stretches of coast—with historic mine workings, bracing weather and strategically timed refreshments.
Setting off from Perranporth Beach just before 10am on a blustery and rather chilly morning, I crossed the sands and joined the South West Coast Path towards St Agnes, passing Perranporth Airfield along the way.
After a quick coffee stop, it was time for the long climb to St Agnes Head and the Coastguard Lookout Station. With the wind still howling, I continued to the historic remains of Wheal Coates Tin Mine and Towanroath Shaft, where I stopped for a well-earned cuppa and something to eat.
Lunch with a sea breeze sounds idyllic. In reality, the wind sweeping in from the Atlantic made the experience somewhat more challenging—and, to put it politely, it was absolutely blooming freezing!
From Wheal Coates, the route was mostly downhill towards Porthtowan, accompanied by wide coastal views and another welcome coffee stop. I arrived at around 3pm, with plenty of time to admire the scenery before the 3:35pm bus.
The return journey proved to be an adventure of its own: a leisurely two-and-a-half-hour trip back to Perranporth. In hindsight, it might actually have been quicker to walk back!
Despite the fierce wind and distinctly unseasonable chill, it was another highly enjoyable day on the Cornish coast, offering spectacular scenery, fascinating mining heritage, plenty of fresh air—and enough coffee to keep the local economy thriving.
